Point Riche Lighthouse & Port au Choix: Where Caribou Roam and History Lives

Point Riche Lighthouse

Point Riche Lighthouse

Within a couple of miles from Oceanside RV Park sits the Point Riche Lighthouse, offering the usual spectacular ocean vistas where we're always scanning for whales and icebergs. But this time, we were hunting for something different—caribou. This area is known as one of the best spots to catch a glimpse of these elusive animals, and we were determined to finally see some.

Day One: Evening Wildlife Safari

Our first evening visit started quietly—no caribou in sight as we explored around the lighthouse. But as we headed back down the road, a flash of white in the woods caught our eye. Grabbing the binoculars, we confirmed it: a good-sized male caribou! We waited patiently (well, sort of) until he emerged from behind the trees, clearly visible and magnificent.

Caribou

Just when we thought the wildlife show was over, we rounded the next curve and came to a complete halt. Two foxes were right there on the road! They seemed completely unbothered by our presence, even posing a bit for photos before disappearing into the bushes toward the woods.

Day Two: The Coastal Trail Adventure

The next day, we returned for the hiking. There are two trails (3km each way) that lead to Phillip's Garden. The one from the visitor center is easy and very flat, while the coastal trail from the lighthouse offers more ups and downs—with opportunities to detour down to the water and explore the coves. We chose the coastal trail, and it was absolutely beautiful.

We constantly left the main path, drawn to walk on the limestone barrens—long, flat gray rocks that stretched to the water's edge. The views from the shoreline were breathtaking, though eventually the cliffs would become too steep, forcing us back to the trail.

Coastal Trails and the cliffs

An Unforgettable Caribou Encounter

During one of our rock-hopping adventures, we found ourselves in a fairly large bowl-shaped area of stone. Looking up toward the rim, we spotted them: two adult caribou and one calf! We sat perfectly still, enjoying the distant view, when something amazing happened. To our complete amazement, they came down into our rocky bowl and passed right by us!

It was the last place I would have expected to see caribou—no grass, just rocks everywhere, with nothing on the other side but more rocks and ocean. Yet down they came, walking over the stone walls and across the rocks as if we weren't even there. Pure magic.

Phillip's Garden: Where Three Worlds Meet

At the trail's end, we reached Phillip's Garden—a beautiful meadow bursting with wildflowers that was once home to the Dorset Paleoeskimo. This is where three trails converge: one from the Port au Choix overlook, one from the visitor center, and ours from the lighthouse. None form a loop, so if you don't return the way you came, you're in for a long walk back to your vehicle.

We decided to take the visitor center trail back, knowing it would lead us at least a mile and a half from our truck at the lighthouse. We wanted to see what we were missing—it turned out to be enjoyable, but if we did it again, we'd return on our original coastal trail. Much prettier!

Newfoundland Hospitality Rubbing Off on others - Trust in Action

Here's where the story gets even better. We met an Arizona couple studying the trail map, and when they asked about the garden and trails, we shared our preference for the coastal route and mentioned our truck was back at the lighthouse. After chatting for just a few minutes, they handed us their keys! We drove their truck to the lighthouse, locked their keys inside (they had a spare), picked up our truck, and avoided that long walk along the narrow road. Turns out they were staying at the same RV park as us. That's Newfoundland hospitality for you - rubbing off on tourists.

The Dorset Paleoeskimo: Ancient Guardians of the Coast

It's worth taking a moment to learn about the remarkable people who once called Phillip's Garden home:

- Ancient Arctic dwellers – The Dorset Paleoeskimo lived here ~2,000–1,300 years ago, making them one of the longest-standing groups in Port au Choix

- Skilled seal hunters – Their survival relied heavily on harp seals, evidenced by countless bones and specialized tools found at the site

- A rare permanent settlement – Unlike other seasonal camps, Phillip's Garden had 50+ organized houses, suggesting year-round occupation

- Mysterious disappearance – They vanished from Newfoundland possibly due to shifting climate or the arrival of new Indigenous groups, but persisted in Labrador longer

A quiet reminder that these trails once thrived with a culture deeply tied to the land and sea.

Final Thoughts

Port au Choix

Port au Choix delivered everything we'd hoped for: incredible wildlife encounters, beautiful coastal hiking, fascinating history, and authentic Newfoundland hospitality. From caribou walking past us like we were part of the landscape to strangers trusting us with their truck keys, this corner of Newfoundland reminded us why we love this style of travel—where every day brings unexpected adventures and genuine human connections.

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