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Badlands Revisited — South Dakota

  • Writer: Kim Martinez
    Kim Martinez
  • May 4
  • 5 min read

There’s always something a little bittersweet about returning to a place you loved.

On a second or third visit, you arrive with expectations — and those can be shaped (for better or worse) by crowds, weather, or even your own mindset. The “adventure” can feel different when the element of the unknown is gone.

And yet… revisiting often reveals just as much.

You notice details you missed.You explore areas you skipped.You see familiar landscapes with fresh eyes.

That’s exactly how this trip to the Badlands unfolded.


🌄 First Visit vs. This Time

Our first visit felt almost surreal.

The jagged formations — streaked with unexpected colors — rise out of a vast, quiet landscape that feels completely removed from the rest of the world. There’s no real pattern to it, no symmetry… just chaos shaped over millions of years.

For me, the Badlands has always been a reset.

This time, it marked something even bigger — the true beginning of stepping away from “normal life” and settling into our RV journey.

🌅 Day 1: Sunset at the Pinnacles

We arrived in late April and stayed four nights — two more than our first visit.

April might be one of the best-kept secrets here:

  • No crowds

  • Comfortable temperatures (even if they swing from 30° to 80°)

  • Late sunsets around 8:30 PM

And maybe most importantly… no pressure.

Since we had already seen the main highlights, we didn’t feel the need to rush out and check every box. We set up camp, had lunch, relaxed — and then headed out the long way toward the Pinnacles, one of the best sunset spots in the park.

That decision paid off immediately.

  • A lone bison lumbering along the dirt road

  • A few deer sprinting across the road, clearing a five-foot fence without hesitation

Moments like that set the tone.

As we climbed into the formations, we stopped at a few quiet pullouts. Hardly any cars… until we reached the Pinnacles.

Apparently, that secret is out.

A handful of people had already settled in — everyone quietly waiting for the show.

And it delivered.

The Pinnacles are perfect for carefully walking near the edges and taking in the scale of the landscape. Even with the April chill, a jacket and a chair were all we needed.

We stayed for the encore too —that quiet stretch after sunset when the colors soften and spread across the formations, giving the entire landscape a completely different feel.

🥾 Day 2: Trails Around Cedar Pass

This time, we wanted to get out and hike more.

Most of the maintained trails are around Cedar Pass, near the main eastern entrance, so we stopped at the Visitor Center, grabbed a map, and headed out.

Driving Cedar Pass from a different direction alone made the day feel new again.

Trails We Did (in order)

Door TrailShort, easy, and still one of the most unique walks in the park. It opens directly into the Badlands “wall” with dramatic drop-offs and close-up views.

Window TrailAnother quick walk from the same parking area — similar feel, but worth it for the different angles.

Notch Trail (our favorite)This one is more of a true hike.

  • About 1.25 miles

  • Includes a tall ladder section (looks intimidating, but manageable)

  • Narrow paths, drop-offs, and plateau sections

The payoff at the end — a wide opening overlooking the valley — is absolutely worth it.

Tip:On the ladder, it’s easier to push off the rungs than try to step between them. Coming down, face the rock and treat it like a ladder.

Cliff Shelf TrailA short boardwalk trail with great views — and surprisingly, a grove of juniper trees. After so many treeless views, it almost feels out of place.

All in, we covered about 3.5 miles.

🌾 Day 3: Sage Creek, Yellow Mounds & Wall

Rain overnight changed our plans a bit.

Some trails — like Saddle Pass — can be treacherous when wet, and even on dry days footing in the Badlands can be unpredictable. So we shifted gears and explored farther out.

Sage Creek Area

Turning onto Sage Creek Road, we were immediately greeted by two pronghorn antelope running alongside us — one of those moments you don’t forget.

This side of the park felt different:

  • Greener

  • More open

  • Almost… friendlier

With bison grazing in the foreground and jagged peaks rising behind them.

We checked out Sage Creek Campground — a free, rugged option:

  • RVs limited to 18 ft

  • Good road access

  • Picnic tables + shade structures

  • Pit toilets only

Great for smaller rigs looking for a true off-grid experience.

🌈 The Yellow Mounds (and “just a quick walk…”)

One of my favorite areas in the park.

The Yellow Mounds are some of the oldest formations here — over 65 million years old — and the colors are unreal:

  • Bright yellows

  • Soft pinks

  • Hints of green

We pulled off for what was supposed to be a “quick walk”…

Which turned into one of my classic accidental hikes.

We ended up down in the valley:

  • Walking dry creek beds

  • Exploring grassy areas

  • Giving a nearby bison plenty of space

And soaking in a completely different perspective of the landscape.

We eventually turned back — not because we wanted to, but because we weren’t prepared:

  • No water

  • No hiking shoes

  • No hat or sunglasses

Lesson learned:My “quick walks” deserve full hiking prep.

🍔A Second Chance at Wall Drug

We headed into Wall — about eight miles from the park.

We’d been before… and honestly, it didn’t leave much of an impression.

But this time felt different.

Early May meant:

  • Fewer crowds

  • Slower pace

  • More relaxed experience

We ate at the café (order-at-the-counter style):

  • Friendly, fast service

  • Slightly pricey, but better than expected

  • A solid garden burger option (which is always a win)

And yes… I followed it up with fries and a mint chocolate chip ice cream cone.

What started in the 1930s by Ted Hustead as a simple idea — offering free ice water to travelers — has turned into one of the most iconic roadside stops in the country.

And somehow… it works.

🏕️ Campground Options Near Badlands

If you’re planning your own trip, here are a few solid options:

  • KOA White River – Good spacing, trees, and river access

  • Cedar Pass Campground (inside park) – Best location, limited availability

  • Badlands Motel & RV Park – Backup option with full hookups

  • Sage Creek (free) – Remote, small rigs only

  • Buffalo Gap Grassland (boondocking) – Free, but rugged (not ideal for big rigs)

💭 Final Thoughts

The Badlands is one of those places that’s hard to fully understand — even after multiple visits.

It’s beautiful… but also a little unsettling.Familiar… but still strange.

The formations can look like:

  • Castle ruins

  • Construction sites

  • Piles of earth frozen mid-motion

And no matter how long you look at it, it never quite makes complete sense.

Maybe that’s the point.

And maybe that’s why it keeps pulling you back.


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